Buttons, Badges and Banksy- Exploring Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter with Kevin Thomas
Known for its swanky bars, fine dining and quirky apartments, the Jewellery Quarter may no longer be recognised for the bustling industrial hub it was once known as. However, the rich and unique history of this urban village can be uncovered with just a short walk (and the right tour guide!).
Kevin Thomas is a Birmingham-based photographer whose work celebrates the art, architecture and history of his city. He utilises this passion to create walking tours that tell the story of Birmingham and highlight its hidden heritage. Earlier this year, I went along to ‘Bathing in the Sunshine’, one of Kevin’s many tours, starting off at the Jewellery Quarter railway station and returning an hour and a half later. Despite the rain that didn’t want to stop, our small, socially distanced group was shown the ins and outs of the district.
From the tour, I learnt just how unique and dynamic a place the Jewellery Quarter is. At its peak, the Quarter contained people of all different crafts who would work together on their creations. A silversmith may have created a ring which was then given to a jeweller to set the stone and finish it off. If you look closely, there are some clues that highlight a long tradition of collaborative workmanship. Brightly coloured Georgian letterboxes can be found all over the Jewellery Quarter. Dating back two hundred years, these distinct letterboxes are unique to the area and you won’t find them anywhere else! They were used to distribute precious metals and stones between craftsmen when they were working on a project together. Even today, the area is full of different crafts and trades whether that be pearl buttons, enamelling, glass cutting, tapestries, watchmaking, diamond dealers and more.
Here are some highlights from the tour:
St Paul’s church
Standing in one of the oldest remaining Georgian Squares of its kind, St Paul’s dates back to 1779 and is a Grade I listed building. Around the square, you’ll find a whole host of interesting places to check out Jools Holland’s Jam House, The Royal Society of Birmingham Artists, St Paul’s House and Contemporary Gallery and more.
The Jeweller’s Arms
Another stop uncovers the great backstory of the famous, historic pub ‘The Jewellers Arms’. This is one of the oldest pubs in Birmingham and was once a hotspot for illicit metal trading. Men would go into the pub with silver and gold shavings hidden in their neatly gelled hair to then sell-off in the toilets. This soon led to the pub being known as a place for undercover police to hang out!
The Red Palace
Standing at the sharp angle between Constitution Hill and Hampton Street is a building commonly known as the ‘Red Palace’. Built-in 1896 and now a Grade II listed building, this distinctive landmark has a bit of a strange backstory. The structure was created in honour of Lord Roberts of Kandahar, a British war hero and army general who led a ‘successful’ campaign in Amsterdam, marching 20,000 troops across 130 miles. This ‘palace’, made to honour a military imperialist, was built in a Gothic style with Spanish touches. So what does Lord Robert have to do with Spanish-style architecture? And what do either of these things have to do with Birmingham? Well, that’s a question Kevin couldn’t answer and one I hope to work out one day!
The building does however tell us a bit about the history of Birmingham architecture. Made of red brick and terracotta, this building is a classic example of Victorian architecture in the city. Terracotta was an easily carved, cheaper substitute for other materials. The clay-based ceramic took over buildings in Birmingham thanks to its resistance to soot and smoke that were prevalent in the industrial era.
Banksy’s Reindeer
Lastly, just outside JQ Station, a new mark was made on the history of the Jewellery Quarter last December. Spray painted on a brick wall, two red-nosed reindeers pull along a wooden bench. This piece has been claimed by famous graffiti artist Banksy, who showcased the art in a video where Ryan, a homeless man, was seen resting beneath it upon the bench. Boldly highlighting Birmingham’s homelessness crisis, let us be reminded and work harder to support and prevent anyone from sleeping out in the cold.
I’d like to give great thanks to Kevin for this tour of the Jewellery Quarter. He is a very knowledgeable guide with a great passion for Birmingham history and he is ready to answer all of your questions.
He is also a great photographer so please check out his work at: https://www.ktphoto.co.uk/
You can see his range of tours at: https://www.birminghamwalkingtours.co.uk
Lydia Buffery
